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City of kings, crown of Hungary


• Across the mountain

Winding path across the mountain Visegrad, fallowed by roads embosomed by trees, along the bended river Danube. Beautiful scenery, blue mackerel-sky, small riverside villages, with green hilly surroundings. The adventure you never wanted to end .....

• 20th of August - Celebration of Crafts

Much smaller scale festival - that in Budapest - is put on for the public every year on 20th August in Esztergom. There is an exhibition of Hungarian crafts, and local firework display. This day is also a national holiday in honour of Saint Stephen (King István I.), founder of the state of Hungary, as well as the festival of the new bread.

Among the events of the 20th August festival the Celebration of Crafts near the River Danube stands out particularly. Every year great number of traditional craftsmen and women, including woodcarvers, bulrush weavers, blacksmiths, potters, musical instrument makers, weavers, lace makers, basket weavers, and 'mézeskalács' (honey-cake) bakers present themselves to the public in the most spectacular gathering of Hungarian folk art. The pavilions offer more than just the finished products for sale; demonstrations are held and visitors are given the opportunity to try doing some of the crafts.

The Celebration of Crafts has a real market feeling to it; visitors can taste various traditional foods of Hungary's regions. Folk dance groups and musicians all around perform their music and dance presentations on the stages.

• Destination Esztergom

Beautifully situated in a crook of the Danube facing Slovakia, ESZTERGOM is about 70 km north-west of Budapest and 25km on from Visegrád. Esztergom (German Gran, Slovak Ostrihom) is a small city in northern Hungary, and is the seat of the Catholic Church.

It is dominated by its basilica, whose dome is visible for miles around. As a building, it is the largest church in Hungary. Its inner area is 56,000 m2. It is 118 m long and 49 m wide. It has an echo of 9 seconds. Its dome, forming a semi-sphere, is situated in the middle, and it has 12 windows. It is 71.5 m high inside, with a diameter of 33.5 metres, and is 100 m high from outside, counted from the crypt, thus it is the tallest building of Hungary.
The sight is richly symbolic, since it was here that Prince Géza and his son Vajk (the future king and saint Stephen) brought Hungary into the fold of Roman Catholic (not Orthodox) Christendom, in the nation's first cathedral.

Even after the court moved to Buda following the Mongol invasion, Esztergom remained the centre of Catholicism until the Turkish conquest, when the clergy dispersed to safer towns and it became an Ottoman stronghold, besieged by Christian armies.

Esztergom combines historic monuments and small-town charm in just the right doses, with a summer festival as an inducement to linger. The town's layout is easily grasped and most of the restaurants and pensions are within walking distance of the centre.

A place one would like to spend lots of time there ..... we will call back next year again!

(S.SZ.)